This page I wrote for my old rv website RVforSaleGuide.com before developing the Vanabode as the best travel vehicle for cheap easy long term road trips. People still like big rv's despite the much greater cost and trouble to operate, so here's what I know about them.

Storing an RV

RV Storage and winterizing tips for good RV storage practices. Storing an RV can be pretty easy, though time consuming. If you are storing your RV in a cold climate for the winter you will find winterize your RV helpful as well. Visit RV spring startup for information on pulling your RV OUT of storage and RV Storage for more comprehensive checklist style storage issues. Most people believe that you must run the engine every two weeks for engine and battery purposes, but this is not true.

Auto dealers run them about every month and they usually drive them one block or two. Truth is, doing that just wears your engine and batteries out further. Also if you store your RV you don't want to be coming back to it every 2 weeks to "exercise" your RV, after all its not a pet.

Parking can be a big problem because most people want their RV as close as possible. If you leave it when on a trip it can be broken into. Commercial storage is good, but very expensive. You can check barns and farm sheds for storage, they can be really cheap. But wherever you choose make sure that the RV will be level because over time the fuel will move to the front of the RV and may saturate the emission canisters.

Try to park the front end higher than the rest, but not with leveling jacks because they can leak or get stuck. Don't use those expensive RV wraps for storing long term because they usually fall off, shred, and animals make nests in them. Charge all batteries fully, and buy an automatic battery charger. Come back every month to charge again. Make sure to turn off TV antenna boosters, and digital clocks. If you have old batteries you should just take them out and replace them later. Digital voltmeters measure the voltage and batteries. You can get them as low as 20 dollars. To "top off" your battery you must complete a full reading of a digital multimeter. This is a big hassle for the small benefit received. Just put water in it when it boils out.

It is pretty much impossible to completely empty a drain tank. But, if you drain it as much as you can then it won't freeze enough to make a burst. A lot of tanks have a port on top, take the port off and cover the hole with screen. Make sure to drain the pump and water heater and disconnect the pump line or you will either get a damaged pump, pump with algae inside, or both. Dump sewage tanks and wash them out before leaving.

Turn off the propane tank and the auto-safety-shutoff. Bugs may get in the regulator so you may want to wrap it up. Fill the toilet bowl with water, or you can wipe the toilet down with plumbers silicone grease. Also, so your shower and sink don't stink later, pour coking oil in the drains of them both.

Set the tires to standard pressure or the sun will rot the sides. Also pour ant killer all around the tires and anything touching the ground to keep the bugs away. Be careful with that any holes on the underside of the RV are securely plugged up or you just might have a rodent family when you get back.

Right before storing the RV, you must have the gas tank close to empty. If you are not going to be gone for more than a year do not remove the spark plugs or squirt oil in the cylinders. Cover all air cleaners with aluminum foil or screen and aluminum duct tape for rodents. Make sure that when you come back you don't start the engine right away. You must disconnect the coil wire, turn the engine over, reconnect the coil wire, and then start up the engine and drive immediately to get the transmission up to temperature.

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